This, ladies and gentlemen is unquestionably the best time of the year. I know, I know, I said the same thing in early December when Christmas was imminent. But I mean it this time. As good as the time leading up to Christmas is, now is better. Even the cold, rainy whether we’ve had this spring can’t figuratively dampen this time of year and all the potential, bursting at the seams, that it holds. And it’s at this time of year we all feel the tug of the annual Siren’s song of the shore. The beach, the Bayshore, seafood - there’s no resisting. I had the opportunity recently both to satisfy my hankering for seafood and to go back to a place I hadn’t been in a while. It’s nice to go back to your roots every so often. Especially when your roots are solidly wrapped around a batch of great meals! Bahrs Restaurant in Highlands (just under the bridge at 2 Bay Ave. – you can’t miss it) has been around, and run by the same family (now in its fourth generation), since 1917. My grandparents brought my mom here when she was a kid and we all came here when I was growing up. It’s an authentic “fish house.” By that I mean you get exactly what you expect from Bahrs. Traditional wood floors and walls, great, fresh coleslaw and hot biscuits served as soon as you site down, huge windows overlooking the Shrewsbury River and Sandy Hook and - if you press your head up against the glass and look North - New York City beyond that. The dining room is raised up above sea level just enough so you can see everything. They also have an outdoor area. It’s perfect. Especially when you throw in the great food. A lot of people think of Bahrs when they’re getting the whole family together. I’d make the case that Bahrs ought to qualify more often than that – and perhaps more to the TriCity demographic. I’m trying to illustrate the counterintuitive notion that Bahrs is in fact so traditional it’s actually hip. Kind of like Fulani and Buchanan or Jacobson and O’Scanlon – it is possible to go so far in one direction that you end up in another. And man does it work. I planned a recent visit to coincide with some thunderstorms rolling through the area. I’m a pretty smart guy - because this was a very cool vantage point from which to watch the show. Of course the food was the star attraction. And I can honestly say that I had one of the best seafood entrees I’ve had in a long time at the perfect window-side table at Bahrs. It appeared on the “specials” list. Baked Tilapia with Horseradish Herb Crust ($16.95). Since I had a serving of this wonderful, light, flaky fish with a thick crust of herbs and fresh, sharp horseradish I’ve had dreams in which the usual cast of beautiful (female – sorry Marko) characters have all been replaced by servings of this dish. And I don’t miss the chicks! Most restaurants use horseradish (one of God’s greatest creations) the way the Clinton Administration uses the term “integrity” - there’s a lot of talk about it but when it comes down to it you can’t seem to find it anywhere. Not so here baby! The horseradish leaps out at you – but doesn’t overwhelm. The serving size was plenty large as well. My suggestion to Ray Cosgrove (3rd generation owner) and Jay (4th generation) is to add a version of this dish to the regular menu. To whatever great fish is available on any given day you could apply “Bahrs Secret Horseradish Crust” and make it a delicacy – and over time a legend! And what a marketing opportunity! I can see the Bahrs Secret Horseradish Encrusted t-shirts and helmets for the kids! This is a winner guys – trust me. The rest of the meal was a hit as well. We started with an order of Fried Calamari ($8.50) which was tender - even down to the tentacles. Next up as a bowl of their tangy, lobster chunk filled and sherry accented rich Lobster Bisque ($6.95). Then we sampled the Caesar Salad ($6.50) which had the perfect amount (not overdressed like most Caesar salads) of garlic and sharp Parmesan laced dressing and homemade croutons. As our second entrée we tried the Stuffed Tiger Shrimp ($19.95). Good-sized tender shrimp topped with golden crusted light lump crabmeat stuffing. Another good choice. I’m dying to go back and try the Spicy Cajun Shrimp & Chicken ($16.95); a serving of which I saw go by and it looked great. All entrees are served with a vegetable. The night we were there they were serving a glorious batch of zucchini and squash and tomatoes in a garlic butter sauce. Just as we were sitting back in our chairs, rubbing our happily bloated bellies and gazing out at the beautiful view, the setting sun broke through the clouds as the storms I mentioned earlier moved off to the East. The light first hit the river, then Sandy Hook and the City and finally created an almost complete rainbow out over the ocean. A perfect end to a great meal and a perfect beginning to a great summer all rolled up into one glorious moment! Carpe Eatem! |
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